An Off-Beat Vacation in the Amalfi Coast

Nocelle is a lesser-known village, tucked securely in the mountains of the Amalfi Coast. Tired of the typical, touristy, run-of-the-mill vacations in Italy or the Amalfi Coast for that matter? Try Nocelle. It is an enchanting 20-minute drive away from the famous Positano. At 1,700 feet above Positano's coastline, we were indeed far from the madding crowd!

We took a taxi from Rainbow Limos from Naples to Nocelle. The route was scenic throughout except for the claustrophobic tunnels in between. A whirlwind drive along the mountain roads after, we were at an end of the road that resonated with the end of the world—Nocelle!

Night View from Nocelle

The village is entirely pedestrian and connected with steps. Despite the mode of your travel, the last stretch can only be reached by foot. Ponies are still used for carrying goods along the mountainous path. The small square, the narrow streets, the lush greenery, the buzzing bees, the chirping birds—all add to the rural aura.

The Village

The Gardens

The Streets

Once in Nocelle, we were transported back to a time where everyone knew everyone in the tightly knit community. The warmth and kindness of the village community made the real difference to our vacation; not a single person passed us without uttering a friendly buongiorno (good day!). We were welcomed as a guest, not as yet another tourist.

The View of Positano from Nocelle

There are a few B&Bs in Nocelle. One of them is Casa Cuccaro which is family owned, wallet-friendly and have panoramic view over the coast.Casa Cuccaro, run by the warm Cuccaro couple, was a simple and elegant accommodation. All the rooms had modern facilities retaining their original charm with the ceramic tiles and vaults. They used fresh produce from their garden; succulent figs, oranges and warm breads were in store for us. They make their own wine too.

The Flowers in Casa Cuccaro

Breakfast Area

We had dinner at Santa Croce, one of the two restaurants in Nocelle. The delicious pasta was enough to make us savor the Italian cuisine. Creamy potatoes from their garden are not be missed.

The next day we took the 1,500 steps to Positano for a travel along the less travelled road. This is a part of the aptly named 'Sentiero degli Dei' ('Walk of the Gods'). This is definitely not for the faint at heart. That said, for a spooky adventure, this is a must-do. The rugged stairs, the eerie silence of the woods around and the melancholic call of a strange insect were all a part of this unique journey; a splendid view over the coast and the mesmerizing sight of the flowers in full bloom were our achievements.


The Route

Arienzo

No camera can do justice to the postcard view of the coast dotted with the villages on the cliffs...save it for your eyes.



From the Walk of Gods

The stairs end at the town of Arienzo, from here we had to walk for a kilometer along the road to reach Positano.

Positano

We returned early in the evening to spend some time in the village. We spent most of our time strolling in the cobblestone streets and relaxing in the village square where bees and birds kept us company. The gardens were ripe with tomatoes, grapes and aubergines.



The Streets and Gardens

Life was at its pace in Nocelle; we took time to smell the burgeoning flowers; sunk in the juxtaposed colors of the sea, sky and gardens; said hello to the occasional and unobtrusive lizards. There is a small church in the village; mornings and evenings were blessed with its celestial bells.

The Church

The Square

Il Ristoro de

We had an ultimate gastronomic experience in Il Ristoro de. From the exquisite vegetable platter to the meltable gnocchi to the sumptuous pizza, their dishes were generous in quality as well as quantity. The restaurant, carved out of a rock, was a perfect setting for our romantic candle light dinner.

A day or two is recommended to relax in Nocelle. However, be warned, there are no activities or must-see places for an average tourist here. You are rather blessed with a view to die for and a time that stands still. Nocelle can also be a hub for your essential Amalfi Cost vacation, if you are enticed by the remoteness, that is. Nocelle is best visited during the summer or spring as the rains are known to cause frequent roadblocks.

Tourists in Nocelle

'Travel is more than the seeing of sights; it is a change that goes on, deep and permanent, in the ideas of living', said the American historian Miriam Beard; visit Nocelle—not for a rendezvous with nature—but with your inner self.

For more detailed reviews, visit my TripAdvisor page.

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